Fans arriving for Qatar World Cup find searing heat, heavy security and a last-minute booze ban

Twenty-four hours from the beginning of the 2022 FIFA World Cup, followers are pouring in to the tiny Persian Gulf state of Qatar, at the same time as human rights issues and questions over how a conservative Muslim nation will cope with the inflow of foreigners proceed to canine the event.

The subject on everybody’s lips Saturday was the Qatari authorities reversing a decision to allow beer to be sold at stadiums, a last-minute transfer that may restrict the sale of alcohol to specially-designated fan zones. Talking to the press early within the day, FIFA President Gianni Infantino downplayed the problem, saying “if for 3 hours a day you can’t drink a beer, you’ll survive.”

However the rule change has renewed issues over whether or not Qatar will backtrack on different commitments, akin to welcoming LGBTQ individuals regardless of a ban on homosexuality within the nation.

Qatar is spending billions to ensure the World Cup is a success – and to improve its global reputation

For many followers who spoke to The Globe in Doha on Saturday, the alcohol determination wasn’t a lot of a shock. Canadian Peter McCormick, who had flown in together with his household from Ottawa, mentioned he “all the time form of anticipated it.”

“They have been on, clearly, the fence from the start,” he mentioned.

For some, the information that alcohol wouldn’t be offered at stadiums got here as they have been midflight to Doha.

“My girlfriend instructed me this morning,” mentioned Paul Gayet, a British fan. However given the sale of alcohol is banned at stadiums within the U.Okay., as in lots of European international locations, a legacy of hooliganism, Mr. Gayet mentioned he by no means actually anticipated something completely different from Qatar.

“I’m a Tottenham fan and I went a bit too laborious at Marseille lately and might’t even bear in mind the sport, so possibly it will assist me,” he mentioned.

Mr. Gayet was impressed by Qatar, significantly the availability of free transport for all followers and the ambiance that was steadily constructing Saturday as individuals flew in from all around the world.

“It’s been mega to this point,” he mentioned. “We bumped into all these Senegal followers coming off the metro, after which a load of Argentinians, it’s been completely good.”

Such proximity with different followers was one of many issues Mr. Infantino touted in Qatar’s favour Saturday. The emirate – not a lot greater than Prince Edward Island – is the smallest nation ever to host the World Cup. This implies guests are all primarily sharing one metropolis, not dotted round varied places as at earlier tournaments.

Different distinctive features of Qatar are much less welcome, not the least the warmth, which stays punishing even in mid-November, significantly on the concrete flats of the Fan Competition space in downtown Doha, the place tens of hundreds are anticipated to assemble each night to observe musical and different performances, with hefty costs for refreshments and scant shade.

At the very least followers can, nevertheless, hunt down shade – and even air con. Round World Cup areas, tons of of safety and liaison employees have been left standing out within the warmth all day, pointing followers the way in which to numerous venues.

“It’s very, highly regarded,” one marshal instructed The Globe. He mentioned he was working ten-hour shifts and shrugged when requested if he was paid sufficient for it. The employee declined to present a reputation because of the sensitivities of speaking to overseas journalists.

Employee rights have been one of many fundamental issues heading into the World Cup, and one of many areas the place Qatar has made essentially the most progress – not less than on paper. In his press convention Saturday, Mr. Infantino pointed to the abolition of the kafala system, whereby employees have been primarily indentured to their employers, and limits on how a lot individuals could possibly be anticipated to work outdoors in summer time.

“What number of of those European or western corporations who earn tens of millions and tens of millions from Qatar or different international locations within the area, billions a 12 months, what number of of them have addressed migrant employee rights with the authorities?” he mentioned of FIFA’s efforts. “I’ve the reply for you: none of them. As a result of any change to the laws means much less revenue.”

Mr. Infantino rejected issues that folks won’t watch the event out of disapproval of Qatar’s therapy of employees or criminalization of homosexuality.

“If you wish to keep dwelling and say how dangerous they’re, these Arabs or Muslims or no matter, as a result of it’s not allowed to be publicly homosexual? In fact I imagine it needs to be allowed, as FIFA president, however I went by way of a course of,” he mentioned. “If I requested the identical query to my father … he would in all probability have a unique reply.”

Mr. McCormick, the Canadian fan, mentioned his determination to return wasn’t influenced by the assorted criticisms of Qatar. His brother lives within the emirate and the household was all the time eager to go to – the World Cup made the plain second to take action.

He was however barely stunned at how managed all the things was. “We went to the Brazil World Cup in 2014, it was extra free,” Mr. McCormick mentioned. “Right here there’s safety in every single place, it’s much more organized but it surely’s additionally much more restricted.”

How these safety cope with the hordes of followers who will probably be transferring across the nation in coming days stays to be seen. The authorities have promised a “soft” approach, and liaison officers from the U.Okay. and quite a lot of different international locations are working with them to mediate any incidents that come up.

The potential for irate followers stays excessive, significantly with some stadiums being in distant places which are solely accessible by bus, usually with an extended stroll within the solar to achieve the transport. Issues additionally stay round fan villages, the rapidly constructed momentary housing that hundreds of persons are staying in during the event. Many are arriving this weekend to seek out their villages nonetheless beneath development and infrequently missing in services, refreshments and safety.

At the very least the Qataris can rely on positivity – in public – from a sure group of followers: these the authorities paid to fly in and put up in lodges.

“We’re unsure what we are able to say publicly, whether or not we’re allowed to criticize issues,” mentioned Darius, a paid fan from Eire who requested to be recognized by one identify for that very purpose. “We haven’t been given any pointers – solely to not do something that may trigger controversy.”

He mentioned he was painfully conscious of the criticisms manufactured from the Qatar World Cup. “This was essentially the most conflicted I’ve ever felt about approaching vacation.”