Canada

How an Ottawa beef farmer ended up raising some of the world’s priciest cattle

For Steven Velthuis, his adventures with purebred Japanese Wagyu beef started a couple of years in the past, on an expensive evening out.

“I went to a baseball recreation, a Blue Jays recreation in Toronto, and I took some colleagues with me,” recalled the Osgoode cattle farmer. “And we went to a restaurant and I stated, ‘Something you need on the menu I am shopping for.'”

That was when one buddy pointed to an eight-ounce Wagyu steak with sides, Velthuis stated — all for a mere $150.

“And I stated, ‘Something however that!'”

Since that fateful meal, Velthuis — who raises dairy and beef cattle on roughly 800 hectares of land in rural south Ottawa — has turn out to be one of many few Ontario farmers with a herd of prized Japanese Wagyu, famend in culinary circles for the marbled texture and wealthy, decadent mouthfeel of their steaks.

Specifics are onerous to come back by, however Velthuis and his son, Brendan, say the variety of Wagyu farmers within the province is at most within the low double digits.

And it might not rise sharply any time quickly, as Japan declared Wagyu cattle a nationwide treasure in 1997 and now not exports reside animals or their DNA to international markets. About 5 years in the past, nonetheless, Velthuis went in with a farmer from Quebec on a cow named Naomi whose bloodline might be traced again to Japan, and his complete herd of roughly 50 animals is now made up of her descendants.

A number of the Wagyu beef cattle at Velthuis’ farm. An grownup weighs roughly between 630 and 680 kilograms, Velthuis says. (Trevor Pritchard/CBC)

Proper now, Velthuis sells largely by word-of-mouth, with high-end eating places to sports activities bars all expressing curiosity in having one thing “particular on the menu.”

“Simply two days in the past, a buddy of mine was in a city quarter-hour from right here, and three-quarters of a pound of rib-steak Wagyu was promoting for $80. I do just like the numbers, so far as what’s obtainable, so far as promoting the meat,” stated Velthuis.

“For those who like superb wine, if you happen to like good scotch, good cognac, a very good cigar — you are going to love Wagyu beef.”

Velthuis, proper, talks about his herd of Wagyu beef cattle on his farm in rural Ottawa as his son Brendan, left, appears to be like on. (Trevor Pritchard/CBC)

DNA registration essential

In terms of the terminology round Japanese beef, it is price explaining a couple of issues.

Wagyu, actually “Japanese cow,” refers back to the 4 sorts of cattle raised for beef manufacturing within the nation: black, brown, polled and shorthorn. The famed Kobe beef — maybe probably the most recognizable Japanese model — is one explicit sort of Wagyu, raised to exacting requirements in a single particular area.

Then there’s American Wagyu, which you may see on a field of burgers in your grocery retailer’s frozen meat part or, more and more, at quick meals eating places. It is a hybrid of Wagyu and different breeds like Angus or Hereford.

There’s additionally “snow beef,” a cross between Wagyu and Holstein heifers that is turn out to be a distinct segment product in Canada.

WATCH | This Ottawa farmer is elevating a herd of dear Wagyu beef

This Ottawa farmer is elevating a herd of dear Wagyu beef

Steven Velthuis is one of some farmers within the province elevating Japanese Wagyu beef with the assistance of a descendent of a small variety of purebred animals that arrived in North America within the Nineties.

Velthuis stated his herd is genuine Wagyu, not a cross, and he can show it: its genetics have been registered with Wagyu associations in each the U.S. and Australia (the Canadian affiliation of Wagyu farmers disbanded a couple of years in the past).

That is essential, he stated, with a view to give clients the satisfaction that they are getting the actual factor.

The DNA registration course of for a full-blood Wagyu herd is “fairly intensive,” stated Hanna Ostrovski, director of analysis, training and packages on the American Wagyu Affiliation.

“We now have a reasonably sturdy database that verifies these animals. And that is actually essential to our producers and to customers, to form of perceive what they’re shopping for,” Ostrovski stated.

“All of us need to make it possible for what you pay for is what you get.”

Velthuis performs with one of many younger calves at his farm. ‘They’re the friendliest creature out right here, for God’s sakes,’ he says. ‘I simply love working with them.’ (Trevor Pritchard/CBC)

The recognition of Wagyu has taken off sharply within the previous three to 5 years, stated Ostrovski, notably as extra cooks add it to their menus.

“For those who go to the grocery retailer, you see Wagyu now. There’s simply extra on the market. We’re driving that practice, we carry on rising, and we’re making an attempt to assist our producers with that progress as properly.”

Velthuis stated his animals are fed a particular eating regimen of floor corn and hay and slaughtered at an area abattoir at 30 to 36 months of age, later than different beef cattle, with a view to get the total impact of the marbling. All that provides to the upper value level, he stated.

As for serving the luscious steaks, Velthuis suggests cooking them medium to medium-rare, with a pleasant glass of pink wine. And if you want your steaks well-done, Wagyu is unquestionably not for you.

“I am going to let you know — if you happen to’ve bought individuals you need to invite [for dinner], and if you happen to inform them you are serving Wagyu, chances are high they are going to present up on time.”

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